The Slacker's Travelogue Rants


May 1st 2010 to August 19 2010
fred's trip journal, travelling on the Danube from Czech Republic through Germany to Hungary

2009 04 25
just entered last year's trip notes into the rantose web page. this is a new height (or low) of slackness. using today (saturday) to prep for trip. need to pack sufficient underwear in order to avoid having to interpret czech waist sizes. do not want a repeat of
[last year's] embarassing attempt to buy right size of undies from clerk who cannot hazard a useful guess at my size, with a mutual language barrier [i found the one clerk in germany who could not speak perfect english when i needed translation the most].

2009 04 29
weds.
plane ride hell. 8 hour flight to frankfurt. arrived there in early morning of next day.

2009 04 30
thurs.
took bus tour of prague and tour of prague castle. this was a hot trek and we were totally exhausted and without sleep after the plane ride. [ugh] our guide made a strange trilling noise when she wanted to gather us. we learned that people often get thrown out of windows in prague.

2009 05 01 fri.
nizbor glass factory tour, quite interesting. our guide margetta was really well spoken and friendly. [she was very convincing on the point that beer is medicine, and is really good for one's health even for breakfast. i think i'm in love.] wandered around downtown for a while and ate lunch at a small cafe. cab ride back to hotel after lunch was 3 (or almost 4) times as expensive as night before. we are saps? [we were told later at the hotel that if one suspects the cabbie is breaking the price controls, you can ask for a printed receipt which can later be used as evidence if necessary, but which usually makes them behave and charge the right prices.]
---
nice dinner at pivovarsky club, which was quite delicious. when we got back, we went down to the casino [in our hotel]. i lost 300 koruna on stupid slots. barb won about the same amount. [the balance of the universe is maintained.]

2009 05 02 sat.
we explored prague, using the subway and trams to get to the funicular and the "eiffel" tower on top of the hill. we rested in a nice garden [with beautiful plantings and nice round walkways with benches under cover] for a while and then rode back down.
we ate lunch at the staropramen restaurant near the brewery, which was delicious. afterwards we went on the brewery tour, which was a bit underwhelming. [we did at least get free beer samples, which were delicious.] [also, there seemed to be some kind of circumambulatory death march involved in finding either the restaurant or brewery or both, where we walked around the entire complex of buildings three or four hundred times.]
that night, we went to the folklore party with dinner, which feature traditional czech music and dancing. we drank quite a bit, starting with an appertif, then on to bad wine, immediately followed by switching to beer, and then had champagne with dessert. everyone was pretty toasted. [the only endearing thing about the wine was the way it was served by a bald-headed man holding a wacky glass apparatus who would like stand on his head or something to serve. however, the wine held inside his magical glass wine flute was crap and we could not drink it.]
---
note: the toilets here all have two types of flush--half and full.
and last night at the restaurant (5/1) i nearly got locked in the toilet stall. [it was malfunctioning and not unlocking, while meanwhile everyone else had filed out of the place.]

2009 05 03 sun.
lounged around the hotel before bus trip to nuremberg. bus trip was 4 hours and very boring, plus painful due to lousy seats. [sorry, some amount of griping may occur.]
got to viking [corporation's] ship and got interminable orientation briefing. dinner was okay but not great, wine and beer were not free and in fact were expensive. 7 euro corking fee if you bring your own wine [to the table]--outrageous! cheap tour company this viking seems to be. [oh, get over it, yoda.]

2009 05 04 mon.
nuremberg tours (nürnberg) to coliseum, built by the nazis and never finished. we also went to the parade grounds, where the big rallies were held.  the facility there had been partly demolished since the war.  then we went to the imperial castle and walked through it.  afterwards we got to the center of town and stopped at a bratwurst place to have beer, which was tuchen dark.  [my apologies for the incredibly brief summary of the incredibly historic bits, clearly my mind is more on beer than history or
architecture during these trips.]  dad insists on spelling the beer name incorrectly.  [was he claiming it was tuckus dark?]  although i also thought the guide's name was 'speeder' instead of 'dieter'.  [so perhaps we are even on whatever doofus scale that is.]
a boring meeting at 4pm for knot tying--retarded.  an orientation at 6pm--also boring.  dinner at least was nice, although they had no vegetarian soup.  we drank vicki's wine and a moravian (we think) bottle [purchased back in prague].  after dinner, we had a short port party in jeff and donna's room.
a note to viking--having the pa system pump music on the same channel as announcements--very stupid.  it's bad music too.  make these separate or ditchy the lousy music.  many [passengers] seem to turn off the pa system in the room entirely to not have music, and then they get no announcements.

2009 05 05 tues.
viking cruise line internet sucks.
today we went to regensburg on a walking tour and checked out the jewish quarter.  there was a synagogue that had been rebuilt after the evil
[expletives deleted] nazis burned it on kristalnacht in 1938.  there was a previous pogrom forcing all jews from regensburg in 1518 or so too.  one boat of them [the fleeing jews] sank with no survivors in the frozen danube.  nazis [of any era] suck [expletives deleted].
---
later we went on a danube boat trip on a ferry boat, which was super cold.  we got to the monastery (benedictine) in weltenburg, where we saw the beautiful baroque monastery with 12 monks in residence.  afterwards, we quickly drank their dunkel [dark] beer before going back to the bus.
---
entertainment at night was "hans", a national embarassment for bavaria.  he tooted a bicycle horn and blew a whistle and capered about like an idiot.  [his act was both depressing and obnoxious, and i wonder how many of my fellow american passengers felt like they had finally met a 'real' german.  argh.]

2009 05 06 weds.
nice walking tour through passau today.  we ended up at an incredible baroque style church for an organ concert, with more than 1700 pipes.  [unfortunately, i seem to remember thinking that perhaps we were used as a teaching concert for chimpanzee organists in training, given some of the not so heavenly tunes that were jumping out of that thing.]  we ate lunch at an innstadt restaurant which was very good.
after lunch we took the bus up to the passau oberhaus, a large castle that has become a museum.  it has at least 5 museums in it (the first we walked through (1), then middle ages (2), then an apothecary museum (3), a bohemian forest museum (4), a metalworking museum (5))  we didn't get to see all of them.  jeff lost his phone, but luckily found it on the return bus.  after that, dad and bud and i went for a beer at a nice bar called simplex, that might have been a gay bar.  it at least had good beer.

2009 05 07 thurs.
forgot to mention--last night, zuzana the maid created an elephant out of towels.  see picture.elephantowelie
---
travelled up to the melk abbey, which was another amazing cathedral, as well as a school with active benedictine monks.  a huge complex with many beautiful rooms and a huge (100K books) library.
---
at 4:30, a fun wine tasting with zoltan, the maitre'd.  i managed to spill a red wine on myself and dad and a woman next to me.
---
at night we went to a strauss and mozart concert at a concert chamber in vienna.  it was really pretty great.  they had a pair of dancers also and a pair of singers and a 13 piece orchestra.  they played some favorites and ended with blue danube and another piece my dad thought was from the 3rd man (the movie).  very nice despite the painful chairs.

2009 05 08 fri.
vienna bus tour this morning and a trip to the imperial winter palace of franz joseph, which was a mammoth ornate place.
afterwards we ate a sundae at a small cafe in downtown vienna and then bud and dad and i had a beer before heading back to the boat (we got a staro brno[?] at the wienerwald restaurant).  [i believe wienerwald means sausage forest.  i also believe in ufos.]  [actually it seems to mean vienna forest.  this trip has been like being lost in 'sausage forest' though.]
back at the boat--surprise--more food for lunch.  an afternoon nap pretty much decimated the rest of the day until the captain's toast and captain's dinner, which was very good.  we had matus, instead of our more frequent waiter tamas, but he was good too.  baked alaska for dessert.  then our 3rd little port party in j&d's room.

2009 05 09 sat.
budapest walking tour.  boat parked in pest, and we took the bus up to buda and went around the old town and cathedral.  stayed in town for lunch and i had a nice fish soup (4 types of fish).  then we had a tortuous walk in the heat back down to pest.  now overheated and exhausted.  budapest overall is cool but also dilapidated; many buildings look dirty and crumbling.  communist rule had not been good to this place.

[flew out of budapest early early on sunday.]

2009 05 12 tues.
last day of vacation.  spent monday in a semi-comatose daze, sunday was infested with air travel, which was not totally horrible but also not so great.  ass is totally numb from airplane seats.  tuesday was mellow, went to star trek movie that came out prior thursday, theater was deserted.  back to sort of normal here.  work tomorrow--weds.

[posted May 1 2010]



April 25th 2009 to April 30th 2010
fred's trip journal, travelling along the Rhine River from Switzerland through Germany to The Netherlands.

6/26/2008
    Night before leaving to fly to Portland Maine and connect up with my family.  Totally scrabbling to get packed.  Soon to be in the land of beer and sausages.

6/29/2008
    On 6/27/2008, flew to LaGuardia from Charlottesville.  Flight 3054 got cancelled from LaGuardia to Portland.  Had to hop to Manchester New Hampshire, where Dad and Bud picked me up.  Drove back to Portland and got in around 1 am.
    On 6/28/2008, drove to Boston, got on plane to Heathrow London.  3 hour layover there.  Baggage nazi was a total dick to us, in the guise of being secure.  He needs to be fired.  Flight on British Air was tasty for food but super uncomfortable for all of us.
    Got to Switzerland at ~1 pm.  Tour guide was odd and nervous, and the bus ride to the boat was conducted without A/C, despite vocal complaints from entire bus.  Turkish driver appeared to want to kill all of us with heat prostration.  Got to the boat.  Captain gave funny safety speech while wearing wooden shoes.  Dinner was superb, including Cappuccino Mushroom Soup.  Carrot souffle was gross.  Dessert was chocolate "mouse", shaped like a mouse but made of mousse.  Yum.  Grand marnier as dessert wine and too much wine [with dinner].

6/30/2008
    Went to Strasbourg France this morning and saw more imnpressive cathedrals.  It seems like a great college town with an incredible amount of history.  Had Serge as our tour guide but he was a bit hard to understand.  Then later we took a tour of the Black Forest.  Stopped and saw traditional building styles there.  Then went to Adolf Herr's black forest cuckoo clock store, plus other stuff and had free Schwarzwalderkirche and coffee.  I bought a mini-sword there.  Will not carry it on flight.  Dinner was really good again.  Walked across the new (2004?) bridge between Germany (Kehl) and France (Strasbourg) to say we had done it.  Tomorrow is "German Dinner".  Internet here [on the boat] totally sucks.

7/1/2008
    Lolled around in the morning and then went on the hot march to Heidelberg.  We saw the gate that Friedrich 4(?) built for Elizabeth.  They were both 16 when married.  He was stuck in circumstances that led to the 30 years war, due to his being a prince elector in the Holy Roman Empire, but also a protestant.  The castle itself was partly ruined but still immense and beautiful.  We went to a section of balcony where a knight had supposedly tried to leap to his death in full armor, but landed and left a huge footprint indentation before he rolled down the hill and survived.  Stepping in his footprint supposedly means one will return to Heidelberg and life happily ever after, since his love's father lamented [relented?] and let the knight marry his daughter.  The castle otherwise is huge and hangs over the city.
    We went into the city proper also and saw the bridge monkey.  Also had a couple beers.  Did I mention this was all done in insufferable heat?

7/2/2008
    We walked into Mainz and toured the Gutenberg museum.  Saw an old printing press and some original Gutenberg bibles (1.5 of them).  We also went to the "Dom" church where they have a bishop associated.
    Later, we took a super hot little fake train to the mechanical music museum, which at least was cool inside.  This was in Rudesheim.  We also stopped at a nice cafe for Rudesheimer Kaffe, with brandy and whipped cream.  Back to the ship by 4.  Later we will have the German Dinner.
    German Dinner was quite good.  Luckily they gave me salmon instead of pork.  Lots of music during the whole meal, including schnapps x 5 chugging machine.  Also an oompah congo line.

7/3/2008
    Travelling through Rhine Gorge.  Fantastic castles and beautiful little towns line the banks and climb up into the hills.  Unfortunately, my camera got full so I'm down in the cabin now downloading it.  Or rather, first deleting the pictures I had forgotten to earlier then will download.  [d'oh!]
    Later we did a walking tour of Koblenz and saw the huge statue of Willhelm the Great (is that Kaiser Willhelm?).  We travelled further and got trapped in a cathedral by the rain.  We also learned the banana system, whereby an artist showed his approval of a museum or art gallery by painting a banana on the outside.

7/4/2008
    Did a walking tour of Koeln, including the massive church constructed from 1248 to 1880.  
Most of the town was destroyed in World War 2, except for the cathedral.  Dad and Bud and I managed to find a place that would sell us a Koelsch before 11 am.  [Apparently German people don't start drinking before noon.]
    We had a nice break to take our naps, but since [our] room 315 had a defective door lock, it had to be replaced which interrupted the nap.  Later, there was a play performed by the crew with multiple acts.  The chef appeared to like dressing in drag very much, as he did it twice.  Now we are a bit drunk and testy.

 7/5/2008
    Morning trip was to canals of Amsterdam.  Saw many nice houseboats and floating garbage nests for water birds (coots?).  Could not get good pictures due to backwards seating on inside away from window, plus the seats were super uncomfortable on the canal boot.
    The afternoon trip was to Zaanse Schaans for windmills and wooden clogs (klompen).  Got up to deck around windmill, which seemed a trifle unsafe.  They make natural dyes in that windmill.  The klompen shop had machines that duplicated the rough outer shape of an existing shoe and another that copied the inside shape by boring out the shoe.  Did not buy any klompen.
    Tonight is last night of tour...
[posted April 25 2009]



November 16th 2007 to April 24th 2009
fred t. hamster's portugal journal 2007
----being a not entirely unredacted chronicle of the author's first trip abroad, to portugal----

8/15/07

the night before we leave the island and go to barb's.
last minute frantic packing is going on.
oddly, i seem to be the most ready.
this is wednesday.  tomorrow is thursday.
friday we fly.

8/19/07 sunday
now in portugal.  8/16 (thursday) was the trip to barb's.
we stayed there on thursday night and took a plane to frankfurt
starting on 8/17 (friday).
the flight left at 4:20 pm for some reason.
we got to frankfurt at 11:15 pm our time, 5:15 am their time on the 18th.
then the flight to porto left at 9:30 am their time and got in
around 11:30 am in porto.  hustle and bustle at the airport
and much luggage wrangling.
the rest of the 18th (saturday) was some dazed tourism.
actually we were allowed on the boat almost immediately.  (they had
been making noise about our having to wait on the top deck for
the rooms to be available.)
dad and i both chose to use the time for showers and a nap.
around 4pm, we woke up and went out to wander
on the shore nearby.  [ed: shore here means the fancy array of shops
and restaurants in vila nova de gaia, near the dock where
the douro prince was moored]
saw a couple of nice buddha statues.
jeff got everyone psyched for a carriage ride,
so after a bit we went out on a ride in a horse drawn
carriage--two big black horses and a rider dressed
in a black zorro costume.
we rode along the shore and saw some great scenery.
one whole length of the facade of city wall was just that--balconies
and windows with nothing behind them.  but then in among the
deteriorated ruins were often functional buildings
with modern glass doors and very classy houses and apartments inside.
after we got back, i ended up buying one of the buddha statues i had
liked.  we had a really tasty dinner, but our table was
the most overdressed.
after dinner, donna and jeff and i went walking along the
shore again.  we ate some disgusting greasy churros before coming back.
much wine and beer was consumed all evening, as well as a tawny port.
the buildings were all lit up beautifully at night,
especially the big round tower up on the hill.  then some zzzz....
today (the 19th), we're supposed to go to a monastery for dinner, with a tour
of porto during the day.

8/20/07
monastery last night was amazing, lots of priceless art works
like ming vases and a pregnant madonna sculpture.
the dinner was quite good and i got to talk to ken and joan a bit.
they had a breathtaking view
of the valley below [ed: the monastery, not ken and joan]
today we travelled to lamego,
where the church of the redemption? [ed: remedies] is located.
it's another incredible and huge church, with fantastic religious art
everywhere.  too bad it's not buddhist.
jeff, donna, barb, and i walked down the 700 steps to the town
below and then shopped for a bit.
we met back up at another church which had marvelous frescoes
on the ceiling, and a lot more of the gold gilded carved wood
all over the altar.  [ed: "gold gilded carved wood" is apparently
the phrase that was repeatedly uttered by the portuguese tour guide]
now back at the boat again, very tired.  also, managed to
*clang* my head against the top of the covered portion of the deck
which had been lowered to go under a bridge.  this is not feeling
too bad yet and hopefully it won't.  now in the room with my
dad who is fidgeting around after a shower.
dinner soon.

8/21/07 tues
last night they had traditional portuguese music, which was great.
it was very moving and a bit rowdy.  about eight musicians,
with a couple traditional fado songs, where the singer wears
a black cape.  today we're going to vintage house, which is a
"wine academy".

8/23/07 thurs
on 8/21 (tuesday) at night, they had traditional spanish dancing,
which was pretty cool.  four spanish beauties performed several
dances with much foot stomping.  [ed: they stomped on the floor
of the "bar lounge" so hard it seemed they would inevitably break
boards]  then on wednesday, we went on a walking tour of salamanca spain.
they had many beautiful churches, some of which we visited.  also, we
went to the art deco museum to start off the tour, and then we wandered up
to the plaza mayor(sp?).  after that we got off course and lost,
but finally made our way to the hotel monterrey again.  then...
the official walking tour began, guided by anthony.  he was a fountain
of knowledge.  he showed us where the frog was sitting on the skull
on the church front.  [ed: or, on the front of the church]
after that, back to the boat and everyone seemed pretty bushed.

8/23 part 2
tonight we had dinner at the vintage house, which was exceedingly
tasty.  salmon in crepe followed by (for me) more salmon.  [ed: the
author is a piscatarian, who only eats vegetables and fish, and the
tour supplied him with food options other than the pork and beef everyone
else was having]  there was white wine followed by red wine
followed by port.  all were much better than the wine at the spanish
hotel in salamanca.  during the day, we travelled to castelo rodrigo
and tromped around in this quite small town (80 inhabitants).  later
we came down the mountain to figuera de castelo rodrigo (with 2200
inhabitants).  they had a market going on, but it was muito underwhelming.
at least at dinner we had got talking with some brits and one guy
(mike?) was appreciative of fawlty towers and monty python.
back at the boat, people again passed out early despite this
being the penultimate day of the trip.  got on the internet
again finally today also, made contact with bob (sort of) and shredder,
and had a nice chat with quag.  [ed: these are three of the author's
bizarro friends]  soon to bed though.

8/25/07
leaving today and on bus to aeroporto right now.  yesterday we
had a tour in the morning to castelinho rodrigo?
getting fuzzy on all the destinations now.  this was a nice
castle town but the main gov...  oops.  no.  that was the 23rd.....
[ed: the author had been about to riff on how the main governor's mansion
in the castle town was destroyed by angry torch wielding serfs at some
point in the past and had been left as mostly a pile of rubble.  there
seemed to be a back story that some jerk was appointed as the local governor
and he spent all the money the crown gave him (for the town's upkeep?)
to instead build a huge mansion for himself.  democracy prevailed and his
fancy pants house was taken away from him by an unaccepting proletariat.
they burned it to the ground.]
actually, the 24th (yesterday) was a visit to castillo mateus.
this is the image on mateus wine, but it's pronounced
"mat-te-oosh".  it was all very beautiful but they served terrible
cappuccino.  the castle itself was very ornate and beautiful.
we went through the usual tourist circumambulation.  they had
a walkway under cedars that was like a tunnel to magical gardens.
their personal vineyard was medium sized and the grapes were
getting ripe.  the trip back was on winding mountain roads
again.  so wishing i could go off on a personal tour with infinite time
and all.  they have many fun little shops here in portugal.
strangely enough, most every farmacia has an electrically lit
green cross outside on the wall (kind of like our barber shops
here with the spinning barber pole).  so overall, it was a great trip,
with very few inconveniences.
hopefully the flight back will be reasonable and as quick as
can be expected.

8/25/07 part 2
back again.  the day was miserable with travelling.  now lying
on my nephew's bed in his old room at my sister's house,
after just finishing stephen king's "lisey's story".
soon to pass out hard.  can't wait to get back to the island
again, where it's cool.  it's nasty hot and sweaty here.
also more provisions are at the island, because things are
very scant here.  [ed: apparently the author requires a great
quantity of food]  zero changes of clothes are left.  ugh.
brought back one _tiny_ bottle of port, but now i feel
equipped to shop for the good stuff.  snooze on, mighty spaceman.

8/27/07
back to island yesterday (8/26).  much fooding beforehand, eating
brunch at moody's and buying food at shaw's.  walked the rows
looking for good port and found none.  back at island this
afternoon and took a lovely nap.  today, almost first thing
was a visit to the island PA (doc) to check on supposed
spider bite on my ass.  he thinks it's shingles, which is
fine with me.  gone in two or three weeks, probably won't
come back, essentially it's a resurgence of chicken pox.
hopefully he's right.  spent some time just now at the library
getting caught up on the internet.  right hand is tired from
writing, now using left.
[ed: the quality of the writing gets dramatically worse at this
point, and it was never very good to begin with]
sprint pcs support web site is so poor it boggles the mind.
have snagged a couple more gifts--pens from the library.
thinking about a nap, but i should finish burning these
dvds of photos for people.  dad's providing blanks to ensure
he gets a full set from everyone.  [ed: the author's
family is trying to get all the digital photos together from the trip;
most of the pictures are blurry shots of people's shoes]
now can practically taste my house and feel my cats,
homeward bound time is so close.  had a little private
meditational time last night with the small bottle of tawny port i got
to bring back...  port at midnight, and it was the delicious
real stuff.  urf, now thinking about snoozing a bit...  zzzz end.

[posted 11/16/2007]